Somanathpur

Somnathpur at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

Somanathpur is a small village about 17 kms from Bannur in Karnataka. The roads from Bannur to Somanathpura are in a state of disrepair (as of dec ’08). Private and State transport buses run from Bannur to Somanathpura with a semblance of regularity. Private transport or taxis are a more convenient mode of transport. Motorcycles are even better ;) If you are traveling from Bangalore, the best way to get there is from Mandya. The Mandya to Somanathpur is approximately 29 kms of which 22kms are good roads.

At Mandya ask for the road to Bannur. At the end of 20 kms from Mandya this road meets the Bannur – Malavalli road at a “T” junction. Take a right turn here. About a kilometer ahead you will find yet another T junction. You are now about 7 kms from Somanathpura - take a left turn here.

As one approaches Somanathpur from “T” junction mentioned above the road curves to the left at the entrance of Somanathpur. On the right you will find a colorful temple complex and a large peepal tree offering much needed shade. This is also serves as the village bus stop. It will be a good idea to park your vehicle here – unless you want to pay Rs 10 or Rs 5 for a non-existent parking lot. The Keshava temple “ruins” is less than 100 meters from the bus stop. One must buy tickets to enter the temple – the usual ASI issue tickets priced at Rs 5 for Indian Citizens and Rs 10 for “others”.

Do not expect to find the temple in ruins; the ASI has done a commendable job maintaining the complex in near pristine condition. The lawn is very well maintained too, although the palm trees look a little out of place. No prayers are offered at this temple since the idol is/was broken, or so my grandmother says. The idol, we found, isn’t broken, but seems to have been reconstructed, so must have been broken at some time. Despite the no prayers status of the temple, one is supposed to take off one’s footware outside the Mahadwara. There is one unmanned shoe rack, and no charges for utilizing this facility. I guess the uniformed and stern looking policeman at the Mahadwara severs as a deterrent to wanna-be footware thieves. I didn’t spot any monkeys here.

Architecturally, the temple is similar to those at Belur and Halebid – built on a platform, star shaped, circular pillars – no two being alike, elephants at the bottom of the temple, horsemen, musicians, dancers, different avatars of Vishnu, the incomprehensible ability to consistently sculpt a straight line across stones etc etc. The construction material is similar - soap stone.

The Keshava temple at Somanathpur was constructed by a high ranking officer in the Hoysala dynasty (named Somanatha), unlike the Belur and Halebid temples which were constructed by the kings themselves. The temple was constructed sometime during the 13th century. The architecture is similar to the Hoysala temples of Belur and Halebid. Among the three, Somanathpur is the smallest – but that in no way diminishes the beauty of the temple.

Halebid boasts of housing one of the largest and most beautiful Nandi’s and Belur boasts of the once upon a time revolving pillar. Somanathpur however has no such apparent claim to fame. There was only one guide at work, unlike the numerous that one finds elsewhere. He was busy with another group, so had to be content with our own interpretations of the sculptures. I am sure some vital information is missing thanks to this “un-guided” nature of my visit.

The single guide on duty is perhaps indicative of the lack of tourist interest in this particular temple. Also indicative of this misfortune is the sole tender coconut water vendor and a solitary beggar outside the complex.

Is it worth going to? Yes. It most certainly is.
If I could choose only one of the three complexes to visit then which one would I choose? Halebid.
Time taken from Bangalore: 3 hrs

Somanathpur